1. What Is Macro?
Macro Photography is the genre of photographing small subjects at very close range, with a magnification ratio of 1:1 or greater.
In other words, at a 1:1 (1×) ratio, the image of the subject projected onto the sensor is the same size as the actual subject. At 2:1 (2×), the image on the sensor is twice as large as the real subject.
Applications
- Nature: Insects, flowers, leaves, water droplets.
- Products: Jewelry, watches, metal details.
- Medicine: Clinical documentation, research.
- Art: Discovering beauty in the smallest details.
"Macro photography reveals a world that human eyes cannot see. Every petal, every wing, every drop of water becomes a universe."
2. Magnification Ratio
Magnification ratio is the ratio between the image size of the subject on the sensor and the actual size of that subject.
Note: When the ratio M ≥ 1:1, it is called "true macro". Many lenses marked "Macro" on the barrel only reach 1:2 or 1:3.
Common Magnification Levels
| Ratio | Decimal | Application |
|---|---|---|
| 1:4 | 0.25× | Close-up — large flowers, products |
| 1:2 | 0.5× | Close-up macro — large insects, stamps |
| 1:1 | 1.0× | Macro — small flowers, medium insects |
| 2:1 | 2.0× | Super macro — insect eyes, fine details |
| 5:1 | 5.0× | Ultra macro — cells, fibers, grains |
3. Extension Tubes
Extension tubes are hollow tubes mounted between the camera body and the lens. They increase the distance from the lens to the sensor — the result is a higher magnification ratio.
Formula
Characteristics
- No optical elements → does not degrade optical quality.
- Reduces light → may require 0.5–2 stops of additional exposure.
- Reduces minimum focusing distance → allows closer focusing.
- Not for heavy telephoto zooms — may bend the mount.
Extension Tubes vs Macro Lens
| Criteria | Extension Tube | Macro Lens |
|---|---|---|
| Cost | Inexpensive | Expensive |
| Quality | Preserved | Optimized for macro |
| Autofocus | Yes (if with electrical contacts) | Yes |
| Maximum Ratio | Depends on lens | 1:1 or higher |
| Focusing Distance | Very close | Close with control |
4. Focus Stacking
The biggest challenge in macro is extremely shallow depth of field. At 1:1 and f/8, depth of field can be just a few millimeters. This means only a tiny slice of the subject appears sharp.
Focus stacking is the technique of shooting multiple images at different focus planes and then merging them in post-processing to create an image with much greater depth of field.
Workflow
- Place the camera on a tripod with the subject fixed in place.
- Focus on the nearest point of the subject.
- Take one shot.
- Shift the focus plane slightly farther away (using the focus ring or a focus rail).
- Take the next shot.
- Repeat until the entire subject is covered — typically 10–50 shots.
- Merge in Photoshop, Helicon Focus, or Zerene Stacker.
When to Use
- Insects (legs, eyes, wings).
- Small flowers (stamens, pollen).
- Products (watches, jewelry).
- Any subject that needs to be sharp throughout.
"Focus stacking is the macro photographer's answer to physics. When the lens cannot deliver enough depth, the software does."
5. Everyday / Street Photography
Everyday / Street Photography is the genre of capturing candid moments in public spaces — streets, markets, cafés, parks. Its purpose is to tell stories through images about daily life.
Characteristics
- Unstaged: Candid, unposed moments.
- Decisive Moment: Henri Cartier-Bresson's concept — the moment when all elements converge.
- Storytelling: Each image tells a small story about people, culture, and society.
- Gear: Typically a compact camera with a 35mm or 50mm lens.
Code of Conduct
- Respect: Do not intrude or disturb others.
- Ask permission when needed: If shooting a close-up portrait, consider asking for permission after the shot.
- Don't be confrontational: If you are refused, stop and walk away.
- Shoot with purpose: Don't shoot just for the sake of it — every frame needs a reason.
"The decisive moment is the simultaneous recognition, in a fraction of a second, of the significance of an event."
6. Demo: Macro Ratio
Adjust the focal length and extension tube to see how magnification changes. A ratio of ≥ 1× is considered true macro.
7. Summary
After this lesson, you have learned:
- Macro: Magnification ratio of 1:1 (1×) or higher.
- Magnification ratio: 1:4 (0.25×) close-up → 1:1 (1×) macro → 5:1 (5×) ultra macro.
- Extension tubes: M = extension / focal length. Inexpensive, preserves quality, reduces light.
- Focus stacking: Capture multiple shots at different focus planes and merge them to increase depth of field.
- Everyday / Street: Candid, unstaged moments that respect the subject.
Practice Exercises
- If you have an extension tube, photograph the same subject at different extensions (0mm, 25mm, 50mm). Compare the magnification ratios.
- Shoot macro on a tripod with focus stacking: choose a static subject (a flower, a coin), take 5–10 shots at different focus planes. Try merging them in Photoshop or a free app.
- Walk for 30 minutes in a public area and capture 10 everyday moments. Don't stage them and don't ask for permission beforehand. Respect others' personal space.
- Select your 3 best macro shots and 3 best everyday shots. Note why you chose them.
1. The Rocking Technique for Macro: At ultra-close 1:1 distances, autofocus (AF) will constantly hunt and miss focus. Switch the lens to MF (Manual Focus) and lock the focus ring at your desired magnification. Hold the camera steady, hold your breath, and rock your whole body gently forward or backward millimeter by millimeter; keep your eye on the screen — when the insect's eye snaps into sharp, brilliant focus, fire the shutter immediately!
2. Zone Focusing for Street Photography: Want to capture fleeting everyday moments in a flash? Don't wait for autofocus! Mount a 35mm (or 28mm) lens, set the aperture to f/8, and manually pre-focus and lock it at 2m to 2.5m. With this setup, everything from about 1.3m to 6m will be tack-sharp. When the moment appears, raise the camera and shoot within 0.2 seconds, then keep walking — no one will even notice you took the shot!
Shooting wide open at f/2.8 for macro hoping for creamy bokeh: at such close distances depth of field is less than 0.5mm, so the bee's eye may be sharp while its head, antennae and wings turn into a blurry mess as if the shot failed. For street photography: avoid thrusting the camera aggressively into strangers' faces or taking intrusive, heavy-handed stealth shots; instead, blend into the public space, use a friendly smile and eye contact, or ask for permission after the shot when needed to respect privacy.